The Return of Scutt

After yesterday's word-up jaunt at D&G where I started digging around my brain for memories of C&A letter clothing and jumping about to Kriss Kross, I now go back a bit to a rather more refined aesthetic memory, which I only saw depicted on soap operas and films where earrings were big and shoulders were bigger.  LFW saw the return of Danielle Scutt back to the runway with a collection that focused largely on a jewellery collaboration with Freedom at Topshop.   I'm of course elated that Scutt is back as her ferocious approach towards power dressing is always slightly intimidating to me and challenges my own perceptions of clothing that empowers women.  This time round,coach outlet store online, I even have more cause to be scared because despite the fact that the jewellery has teapots, lipsticks and ears dangling about, of course the barrier is a) I don't have pierced ears and b) metal that isn't pure silver/gold gives my skin a rash. 

So this is entirely a selfless post for those whose ears can jingle and jangle with this range of jewellery that will be hitting Topshop stores on the 1st April which in essence means that the focal point of Scutt's A/W 11-12 collection will be available to the masses fairly soon.  I find it quite refreshing to see these collaborations become the centrepoint of a collection and that the selling date is closer than the normal 5-6 month lag. 

Not that Scutt's clothes aren't the perfect backdrop for the bevy of bling.  Hot pink,coach handbags wholesale, lattice work,Replica Radar Sunglasses, crushed velvet and gold lame make up the textures that will have you recalling the 80s but they make a welcome return in Scutt's context where she is referencing anything from Frida Kahlo to Ray Petri's 'Buffalo' style.

I bunged in the video at the top as well as some of my catwalk images just so you don't mistake the earrings for being wimpy sized.  These are MAHUSSIVE earrings that properly dangle. 

 

There are a few pieces I can get on board with without my ears pussing such as Scutt's intention to bring back the chain belt, which when paired with an excess of other jewellery can only recall that slinking image of Ines de la Fressange walking Chanel, holding a cigarette looking intimidatingly angular. 

Yup, these are platinum lock earrings...

I'm also intrigued by the shoe clips which I saw on the catwalk though in the production process, these could have turned into another pair of earrings.  If they're clip on maybe I can still fashion them into shoe clips for a pair of lippie adorned shoes...

Jacket Anatomy

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>> Hopefully some of the Londoners here got my Tweet yelp before Christmas on the day of the Louise Goldin sample sale urging people to get down there quickly because the samples on offer were truly stupendous.  Knowing the retail value of some of Goldin's pieces that can go up to £2k, the presence of these samples going for mostly around the £50-£200 price bracket was pretty mind-boggling.  The diminishment of a sample sale where truly bargainous bargains can be found probably fuelled my excitement. 

There might be a few question marks as to Louise Goldin's future due to her not showing last season opting for a static presentation instead and not being on the LFW schedule for February either.   Still her contribution to technically challenging and structural knitwear is still fresh in my mind,Monster Beats Studio Kobe Bryant, mostly concentrated into the 'space-military' A/W 10-11 collection from which this jacket was spawned from. 

It's the combined anatomy of the jacket that makes it so delightful to wear and discover starting from the two front zippers that can make the front panel peel back to reveal whatever is underneath.  Then you move to the zippers at the shoulders that can be unzipped nearly all the way round to keep the jacket and sleeves attached in one entity.  More than likely,Gucci Tote Bag, the zippers will be partially undone.  The stingray padded epaulettes can also be snapped off but who would want to be rid of that galuchat texture anyway.  Finally the two front cargo pockets that bellow out a little actually will hold a phone or some change without the jacket looking weighted down as well as being the aethstic finishing touches to this detail-ridden jacket that ensures Goldin's work won't ever be erased from my memory at least. 

The Only Son

>> I'm aware that as September encroaches, S/S 11 will be on everybody's minds and I'm the slow mo still catching up on the A/W 10-11 collections I saw back in Feb-April.  From press days, I still happen to have a mound of stuff to go up that is of the autumn winter ilk.  One of the gems that I unearthed from press day folders was The Only Son.  I tend to know exactly what I'm going to see when I'm doing London press days but The Only Son, designed by Bangkok-based Au Ekbutr Udomphol (yes, I had to copy and paste that...) was a surprising new find.  Well, because there aren't many Bangkok-based labels with British press representation and because I loved what I saw in the cuts of the clothes.  Udomphol has experience at Ksubi, Sass & Bide (he studied in Sydney's Institute of Technology) and Imitation of Christ in New York and then came back to Thailand to start The Only Son with a debut collection that impressively includes - shoes, bags, jewellery as well as both menswear and womenswear. 

Whilst there are nods towards androgyny, the differentiation between men and women are still well defined through the deconstructed tailoring.  That buzz phrase 90s minimalism supposedly is an influence but there's a richness about the clothes, especially seen in the scarlet coat where the detailing comes in abundance - a slit here, a fold in the double layered-lapels, a criss-cross vent at the back - construction a plenty that means the effect is anything by minimal.  This sort of cutting carries over to the other pieces of outerwear in the collection with zippers and pockets accentuating other parts of the collection.  I also love the asymmetrical length of the dresses/skirts, cut to mid-calf. 

(With ASOS studded jeans, vintage shoes, Fannie Schiavoni chainmail glove)

Can't quite get over how complex this coat is in terms of its construction... if I'm to wear a dress coat, this one would survive all on its own as a sole layer...

(With Emma Cook for Topshop boots, Victim dress)

Looking at the rest of the collection, again, minimal or muted don't come to mind especially with the introduction of the purples, satins,monster beats headphones, knitwear, prints on top of all the jolts and jumps in pattern making... then it's all weighted down with the utilitarian backpack, the sturdy shoes and the nail-ridden jewellery...  

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• Sobering Up
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Battle of the Bretons

Well, aren't we a couple of slothy fashion bloggers with too much time on our hands?  I've just recently noticed how strange it must seem to the general public that both my boyfriend and I are fashion bloggers and even then, I only noticed because there's a little 'eyebrow' raise and a bemused smile when I tell people.  Still, I suppose I make things nauseatingly worse when I think of *ahem* "fun" (heavy on the air quotes) things to do like this... Battle of the Bretons! 

You wrangle it out PS3/X-Box etc... I pit hidden skulls against classic stripes in knitwear.  To each their own, yah?

So Steve got himself a very lovely and soon-to-be overworn E. Tautz breton striped jumper for his S/S 10 wardrobe.  He's already taken it back to the grandparents, they approve and he's got the by-the-sea pics to prove it. 

A week later, a different kind of Breton arrived in the office.  I'd been salivating over its impending arrival whilst I was in Stockholm.  Sibling London's intarsia Noah skull Breton from their outstanding third collection (wait for the monsters from the fourth one...) is finally mine.  And I look forward to resisting pushing my thumbs through the sleeves making ratty holes in it. 

As it so happens Sid from the Sibling trio also consulted on E. Tautz's knitwear too which makes the pairing all the more apt.  I always knew the Noah Scalin-inspired skull would always win me over despite the fact that E.Tautz's version is probably likely to be worn a few more times.  Like all my other so-called fun ideas though, this is a pretty fruitless battle given that either way... we can both steal each other's Bretons whenever we're feeling less/more of a classic mood... do you guys need a bucket? 

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