>> I'm aware that as September encroaches, S/S 11 will be on everybody's minds and I'm the slow mo still catching up on the A/W 10-11 collections I saw back in Feb-April. From press days, I still happen to have a mound of stuff to go up that is of the autumn winter ilk. One of the gems that I unearthed from press day folders was The Only Son. I tend to know exactly what I'm going to see when I'm doing London press days but The Only Son, designed by Bangkok-based Au Ekbutr Udomphol (yes, I had to copy and paste that...) was a surprising new find. Well, because there aren't many Bangkok-based labels with British press representation and because I loved what I saw in the cuts of the clothes. Udomphol has experience at Ksubi, Sass & Bide (he studied in Sydney's Institute of Technology) and Imitation of Christ in New York and then came back to Thailand to start The Only Son with a debut collection that impressively includes - shoes, bags, jewellery as well as both menswear and womenswear.
Whilst there are nods towards androgyny, the differentiation between men and women are still well defined through the deconstructed tailoring. That buzz phrase 90s minimalism supposedly is an influence but there's a richness about the clothes, especially seen in the scarlet coat where the detailing comes in abundance - a slit here, a fold in the double layered-lapels, a criss-cross vent at the back - construction a plenty that means the effect is anything by minimal. This sort of cutting carries over to the other pieces of outerwear in the collection with zippers and pockets accentuating other parts of the collection. I also love the asymmetrical length of the dresses/skirts, cut to mid-calf.
(With ASOS studded jeans, vintage shoes, Fannie Schiavoni chainmail glove)
Can't quite get over how complex this coat is in terms of its construction... if I'm to wear a dress coat, this one would survive all on its own as a sole layer...
(With Emma Cook for Topshop boots, Victim dress)
Looking at the rest of the collection, again, minimal or muted don't come to mind especially with the introduction of the purples, satins,monster beats headphones, knitwear, prints on top of all the jolts and jumps in pattern making... then it's all weighted down with the utilitarian backpack, the sturdy shoes and the nail-ridden jewellery...
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